Don’t miss the Nariz del Diablo railway journey

If you’re like me and enjoy the travelling as well as the arriving at your destination, then there’s some news I thought I’d share with you.

In times gone past, the train from Alausi to the famous Devil’s Nose in Ecuador was a bit of a bone-shaker!!!. Comfort was not the name of the game, which is a shame, as it detracted from the real reason to make this journey – the spectacular views!

Since April 2012 the game has changed with the introduction of all-new rolling stock. Not only are the windows, quite frankly, enormous, but the train’s suspension has been upgraded. Tren Ecuador is also launching new Standard and Standard Plus services on the new carriages. Standard fare passengers will receive a guide and a coupon for a drink in the cafeteria car, while Standard Plus ticketholders will enjoy in-seat service. Together with air conditioning, this experience is something you’d kick yourself if you missed.

One of the local inhabitants out for a stroll

I have been on a number of guided, self-drive, camping, lodge etc. safaris and I have to say that whilst I love the professionalism of the guides, with all their knowledge that I couldn’t hope to learn, the off-roading and being able to get up close to the wildlife, there is nothing quite like driving yourself through somewhere like the Kruger National Park and coming up on anything from a massive bull elephant in must to a tiny mongoose skitting along the roadside.

The flexibility of planning your own routes, working out which circuits you can squeeze in before the gates close for the evening (strictly at 6pm – season dependent) can be an exciting part of the whole holiday. My husband and I have had a number of holidays in the Kruger, from early childhood family holidays to just ourselves, and the main argument we have now is whereabouts to stay, the north or the south (Ryan wanting the south and me the north). The south is the busiest part of the park in terms of vehicles but it does have a fantastic concentration of the big cats. The north however is much quieter and more remote but there are less big cats, or rather, they are well hidden on the Mopani forests! In recent years we have done both to avoid arguments but once we’re in the vehicle with our ‘eagle eyes’ ready, it doesn’t seem to matter.

Ryan can be a bit of a drill sergeant . . .!

Ryan can be quite the drill sergeant when in Kruger. We are always the first vehicle waiting to get out of the gate, heaven forbid we get out second!!! And our lunch stops and waterhole viewings are timed precisely to maximise game viewing hours. While most people return to their chalets during the heat of the day for a leisurely lunch or time to chill on the veranda with a book, we are out driving in the boiling car (without aircon because the window MUST be down to ensure maximum clarity in being able to see), even though all the animals are probably asleep in the shade or hiding in the deepest bush. But the funny thing is, I wouldn’t change it one little bit. The main reason being is the excitement of what might be around the next corner and the feeling that if you’re indoors you are likely to miss out on some spectacular sighting, and that keeps us out trawling the bush from dawn til dusk.

The evenings are then always the same, sitting around the BBQ (braai) with an inappropriate amount of meat cooking, a few beers and chatting about what we’ve seen followed by the dreaded plan of the next day! Bliss!

Self driving safaris are not for everybody. Some people go on holiday to be pampered and looked after and the thought having to pack everything but the kitchen sink, plans meals, cook for yourself etc is not everybody’s idea of fun. But if you’re looking for and exciting adventure mixed with bringing some household chores with you then have a go! I am sure you won’t regret it!

The magnificent coastline of Santiago Island

When visiting the Galapagos islands you expect your visit to be full of close encounters with giant tortoises, marine iguanas, sea lions and great frigate birds. But one of my favourite landing sites had no wildlife. Except for the odd aptly named lava lizard and a cactus here and there.

The moon-like lava flow landscape

Stepping off the panga in Sullivan Bay you would be forgiven for thinking you’d stepped onto another planet. Spatter and cinder cones around the bay and the volcanic landscape of Bartholome island surrounded us and it feels very barren and moon-like. And then we looked down to see the incredible detail of the pahoe hoe lava flow here twisting and turning into fascinating formations – erosion is incredibly slow so the lava is preserved. The lava flow was formed within seven years of eruption from 1897 – 1904 and we could clearly see the layers of lava where it has spilt and cracked. The landscape is bizarre but spectacular and we walked across the trail onto the lava flow to examine the cracks and patterns the lava had created.

As my Galapagos Island cruise did not visit the more volcanically active islands of Isabela and Fernandina in the west of the archipelago, I thought this landing site on Santiago was a wonderful surprise and a superb experience. It’s a great taster of the kind of scenery for anybody not visiting those volcanic western islands. It also a great spot for snorkelling near the beach and to go searching in a panga for the Galapagos penguin around Pinnacle Rock on Bartholome island. I thought it was great to see a really important part of the Galapagos islands landscape even though my cruise was not concentrating on the more volcanic islands.

I’d thoroughly recommend including Santiago Island as part of your Galapagos cruise!!

My safari probably won't be this relaxing . . .!!!

At the end of the month I am off on a Botswana safari for about two weeks.  “That’s the kind of job I could do with”, I hear you say!   You’re right, I can’t say I’m complaining!  But I do pay for it in more ways than just financially.

In these two weeks I will be visiting or staying in about 20+ different lodges. I not only have to thoroughly check the places in terms of their facilities, cleanliness, staff, health & safety and so on, but then I have to write it all up.  On my return I will have to update web pages, rewrite words for booking packs, train my consultants on everything I’ve seen, update all photos … it takes about two weeks to catch up from the two weeks away, so for about 1 month I don’t get a day off. At the end of all this, you end up pretty well shattered.

I can tell you’re really feeling sorry for me!

OK, I guess I also have to confess and tell you the good bits too.  I will be going on safari in between lodge inspections.  I’ll be visiting the Okavango Delta, Victoria Falls, Chobe and the Makgadikgadi Pans.  Botswana really does have some incredible places.  I’ll be sure to let you know all the good bits of what I see when I get back!

I can't think of an appropriate caption . . . comments welcome!

OK, so we’ve been doing our regular boot camp sessions with Jay at The Barn300.  After starting at twice per week, we’re now attending three sessions and can’t believe the difference. We’ve noticed it in our strength, stamina and body shape but I have to say the biggest change is our appetites!!! We are eating like horses. It’s a good job we’re burning it off.

A muddy and exhausted Tribal Trio!!

Typical session includes running around obstacles in a field (often wet and muddy!) carrying a fireman’s hose or scaffold pole, interspersed with numerous press-ups, burpees, star jumps, etc.  Jay is great at keeping us on our toes – literally as well metaphorically.

Just as we think we’ve achieved the target he’s set us, he adds another one!  But it all contributes to a great work-out and we all feel exhausted but proud at the end of it.

To get some walking exercise, Ryan and I have been doing some local walks as well, the UFO trail in Rendlesham Forest being the most recent. Sadly no UFOs or weird phenomena were seen but walking 7 miles around the forest was certainly beneficial and very pleasant.

Ryan, not looking too fazed by the challenge ahead!

Sal, Ryan and I are happy to say our new boots have been walked in nicely and there has been no sign of blisters.

We’ve also started collecting equipment – hiking poles, ski jackets, warm woolly hats, thermal vests, etc.  Although the climb only lasts 5 days, the climate goes from one extreme to another so we’ll start off in T shirts and shorts, but have to be prepared for minus 15 deg at the top.

We are borrowing LOADS of items from various family members and friends and I think it’s slowly starting to sink in that we are getting quite close to the climb. 10 weeks and counting……!

A hive of activity at the Maasai market in Longido

“Yeyo takwena” I said to the first Maasai lady I met at the market. She fell about laughing! This was my best effort at a newly-acquired greeting in Maa, so it seemed I needed quite a bit more practice.

I was the only ‘mzungu’ in this Maasai market. I wasn’t exactly hard to spot, especially with a bright purple umbrella protecting me from the fierce sun, so within minutes everyone knew there was a stranger in town. Tourists very rarely come here. And how friendly and welcoming they were!

Sambeke introduced me to everyone we passed, translated questions to and fro, and explained to me what was going on. Don’t shake hands with these ladies because they have been snuffing tobacco and they have dirty hands. This lady is making a beaded belt for her boyfriend. These sandals made out of old car tyres are the very best for walking in the bush. The man driving the motorbike there has never had a driving lesson in his life, so keep out of his way. This is my sister and she wants to know about your family.

We spent about an hour just wandering around chatting to people. I felt relaxed, no-one tried to sell me anything (I really didnt need tyre sandals, vegetables or a new ‘shuka’ – the Maasai blanket), and I was simply and respectfully accepted as someone that Sambeke had brought to show around. It was OK for me to be curious about them, and it was likewise fine for them to ask about my life.

Sometimes the meeting of two very different cultures can be less than satisfying or comfortable. This was different. This was really enjoyable.

The Rift Valley Children's Village

When I was told the children’s village was in Karatu, I figured it would be IN Karatu. Ten very bumpy kilometres and 30 minutes off the main road later, we arrived!

It might be remote, but it is most certainly a stunning spot. On the outskirts of the Ngorongoro Crater, amongst coffee plantations and verdant hills, this area would be many people’s idea of a perfect place to escape to.

And indeed this is an escape, and more importantly, home to 83 children, from as young as 5 months old.

American, India Howell, set up the RVCV and didn’t call it an orphanage. I think that fact underlines her vision. This is not an ‘orphanage’, it is a home. It feels like a home, it’s run like a home and the children feel at home. It is a really happy place.

Huge excitement at the new train set!!!

I had dropped in to visit to bring another donation from The tribes Foundation, and also to give a present of a wooden toy train set from my own youngest son. That went down a storm!!!

The kids here are all identified to India by local leaders as being either orphaned or at risk. Once here they find love, security, good food, education . . . and a family.

India and her team of permanent staff and volunteers run the home excellently, and it’s all done through charitable donations.

The Tribes foundation has donated to RVCV in the past and we would love to keep backing them.

Currently, they are trying to raise money for a new house for their growing ‘young men’ of 14/15 years old, so they can be taught to look after themselves, ready for life in the big, wide world.

If you would like to help, please send any donations to The Tribes Foundation, and mark them ‘For RVCV’.

Up to date we haven’t offered Bhutan as a destination but we’ve decided to expand our portfolio into this amazing country. I’ve set up a discovery trip which will run in October this year and is designed for me to see as much of the country as possible in about 11 days. And I thought it would be great if a few people came along with me on this so that I can get as many points of view as possible. Clients’ points of view are really important to us as this helps us design tailor made Bhutan tours for our clients of the future.

We’re going to be flying in via Kolkata as there are no direct flights from the UK to Bhutan. We’re visiting all the major sites in the west and centre of the country. These tend to focus on monasteries and other religious sites but as I understand it the real highlight is the fabulous landscape in which these places are located. And as we travel around the country we’re going to be stopping at small villages and looking at local markets, seeing how the rural communities live and finding out as much as we can about the traditions and culture of this place. One thing that intrigues me is this concept of gross national happiness. That’s something that the government measure their success by and have as a central tenet of their society rather than the gross national product that we in the west look at to measure prosperity. It’s a great notion and I I’m looking forward to meeting the people that live in this happy regime.

Well if you want to find out more about the trip have a look at the itinerary on our website or give us a call. There are limited places available on this and I think it will be a great adventure.

The magnificent Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania.

One of the reasons that travellers like to use the services of a good tailor made travel company is that the good ones have excellent comparative knowledge of different destinations, experiences, accommodation and so on.   We really know the difference between the kind of safari holiday you’ll get, for example  in Botswana, to that which you’ll find in Tanzania.

Since Tanzania is one of my personal favourites for a good safari holiday, I thought you might like to know my reasons for this.

1. A Tanzania safari can include two of the best known places in Africa: the Serengeti and the Ngorongoro Crater. They are both very different of course – one is a contained area with excellent varied wildlife, the other is a massive area with huge herds and somewhere that gives you that feeling of wild Africa in all its enormity and magnificence.
2. I once sat by a fire at the Olduvai Gorge by the Serengeti, and watched the moon rise.  I was in one of the most ancient places, a place where tracks and remnants of our ancestors were found, and the feeling of history and the continuation of life was palpable and unforgettable.
3. The Selous Game Reserve and Ruaha National Park in the south offer a very varied and excellent safari experience, including boat safaris and walking safaris. They are quieter than the north and very beautiful parks.
4. There are some really remote and rarely visited parks very worthy of a mention for anyone who fancies something really different. Katavi National Park has only about 300 visitors a year and offers a stunning wildlife experience at the right time about (June to October).
5. I like the fact that at least on the so-called ‘Northern Circuit’ you can choose to drive from one place to the next as opposed to fly.  This gives that feeling of a journey which I love, and you get to see the landscape much more closely.
6. A Tanzania safari is almost always inextricably linked with gaining an insight into the people of the country.  Most often (though not exclusively) it is the Maasai tribe that you will come across.  Africa is not just about the wildlife and landscape,  the people (especially the indigenous tribes) are of course fundamental to what the countries are all about.  And anyway, I love Maasai bead jewellery!
7. There is such a choice of places and ways to see the wildlife – for example, in about July to October, Tarangire National Park is the best place to be in the north. Few people have heard of it, yet this is where wildlife of the area flocks to (for the permanent river) in the dry season.
8. You can even see primates in Tanzania, which not everyone is aware of.  Visiting the chimpanzees at either Gombe or Mahale is an incredible experience.
9. Tanzania has one of the most iconic sights of Africa – Mount Kilimanjaro. Whether you climb it or just enjoy it as a backdrop (cloud cover permitting!), Kili is great to see and another plus point for Tanzania in my books.
10. It is so easy to combine a Tanzania safari with time on the beach afterwards.  Head for the mainland coast, or fly over to one of the Indian Ocean islands such as Zanzibar, Pemba, Mafia or Chole.

Watch out for future blogs about why to go on safari to other destinations!

The incredible Serengeti

As I have mentioned in a previous blog, a tailor made holiday is the best way to get the holiday you really want. We don’t all have weird and wonderful wishes to fulfil, but sometimes you just want what you want!

One trip we loved putting together was a trip for a renewal of marriage vows for a lovely couple. It was a few years ago now (and they still travel with us even now) but I still remember how lovely it was to be able to arrange that very unique and special event for them.

It happened in the Serengeti in Tanzania, which is already a good start! They of course had a wonderful safari experience. On the special day however, we got them up early and took them to a hot air balloon. They had a stunning hour’s flight over the African savannah, and then they returned for a ‘wedding ceremony’. Everyone was dressed to the nines, their “maids of honour” were Maasai warriors ( don’t tell them I called them ‘maids’), there was a gorgeous champagne wedding breakfast spread out, and the Maasai also provided the entertainment with singing and dancing.

I know they will always remember this event, and actually, so will I – even thought I wasn’t there.

It was lovely to be a part of something so special like this. If you are wanting a renewal of vows in a unique spot, we’d love the opportunity to help you plan it!